So what happens at when Clive hosts a “Wine Table”? A small group (maximum of 12 people) of wine lovers, drinkers and thinkers gather around a table in front of Clive’s wine stall, with a tasting glass, tasting sheet and pens. It’s informal though with a purpose of sharing and enjoying wines. Everyone is introduced and then the wines come out.
Clive pours the wines without saying much about them to start with and lets the guests taste, discuss and make up their own minds about each wine before he shares more information about each wine. He normally chooses a mixture of wines; recent finds, small parcels that have just been brought in and old favourites that he stocks at the shop as well as new arrivals that he is exploring and wants to test.
And during the tasting there are food treats from the Goods Shed, from home made cheese straws, to fine Basque and Iberico charcuterie from the Patriana stall, to winter chanterelle soup from Jonny Sandwich, to Rafa’s take on patatas bravas from the Goods Shed restaurant.
The tasting on the 16th of November featured an interesting organic range from Can Majoral, Mallorca, a biodynamic Grenache from Roussillon plus a handsome claret and a fine Ribero del Duero. In addition there was an Arbois Vins Jaune, an Alsace Riesling and a Rhone red. There were two standouts, the San Roig from Can Majoral an ultra rich Cabernet Sauvignon which proves that Mallorca can make high class wines, and the Biodynamic Grenache from Roussillon, which at the age of 7 years had terrific energy and youth. Taste notes are below.
Can Majoral Butibalausi White, Mallorca 2011 organic (Premsal, Parellada and Chardonnay)
An interesting, gentle citrus scent, fresh and clean with a slight pine note which leads to a clean , crisp, fresh palate of medium weight. Certainly attractive and mouth filling it has a brightness which is refreshing and lends the wine to fish dishes and aperitif style.
J B Adams Riesling Nature, Alsace 2011 organic.
A wine with a light yet persistent aroma of lime and elderflower with a typical Riesling kerosene note haunting the background. The palate has a marked acidity, which for acid lovers is fabulous but for those looking for rounder styles this should be avoided. The acid drives the wine giving vivacity and life to the green apple and citrus fruit. Oh for some roast pork!
Fruitiere Vinicole Vin Jaune, Arbois , 2005
Following Raymond Blanc’s TV tour of France, I thought the Table should show a Vin Jaune. This had the yeasty flor-like nose with a terrific hazelnut depth and some ripe lemon and beurre blanc scents. Delicious palate , dry crisp acid cuts the oxidative notes and balances the richness and alcohol. Long finish, nutty and clean. A great wine experience.
Butibalausi Red, Can Majoral , Mallorca, 2010 (Callet, Manto Negro, Ull de Llebre, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon) organic.
A dark ruby wine with aromas of black plums, blackcurrant, leather and spice. A complex nose, fairly four square with a garrigue note in the background. The palate carried the sturdy , but accessible, character of the nose and with similar flavours but with the addition of a firm mineral element.
Can Majoral, Son Roig, pla I Levant, 2007 (Cabernet Sauvignon dominant with some Merlot and Syrah) organic.
A deep coloured wine, the glistening look of which promised a richness on the palate. The nose was laden with heavy kirsch, cassis and black fruit conserve scents, maintaining the promise and the palate then delivered. It was big, broad, unctuous, almost deep enough to spread on toast, yet balanced and vinous. The fruit characters were of black fruits almost cordial like but shot through with savoury edges. Very long and satisfying wine. Not a generic Bordeaux style, nor with the purity of Oz or the black cherry of Napa, more akin the intense nature of recent Pontet Canet vintages.
Can Majoral, S’Heretat, pla I Levant, 2006 (Callet, with a little Merlot and Syrah)
Broad structure, loose knit with an earthy core. A very different feel to the Son Roig, this has a Mediterranean character with herbal, pine notes, red fruits which are integrating well with dusty tannins. This is not in the classic style of Roig but is nevertheless an interesting, textured quality wine.
Les Amis de Bouissières, Vin de Table,Rhone, 2010 (Grenache, Syrah and Merlot)
Raspberry and white pepper nose with the baked garrigue of the southern Rhone create an attractive bouquet. The palate was driven by the alcohol, 14.5%, and carried some dusty fine tannins. This was a wine which caused most division at the table. Those not in favour felt it was short , those who enjoyed it liked the hit of Grenache and Rhone characters.
Chateau Lacombe Noaillac, Medoc 2006 (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot)
The wine performed very well, delivering a classic black fruit, herbaceous and cedar nose, finely balanced palate with mellow yet firm tannins. It was very well behaved, ‘did what it said on the tin’, and made you happy to drink claret. Okay, so it is not a Grand Cru with the depth of that level , nor the price tag, but it delivers harmony and sophistication to the dinner table.
Ey, ‘Grenache’ Vins de Gaume’, Roussillon, 2005 Biodynamic
This is from a small bin end parcel purchased by Press Wine. Terrific Grenache suppleness and richness. The wine has great depth and breadth, still looks and tastes young, and carries that Biodynamic energy. There is the slight funk of Biodynamic wines, the hint of stemmy, very ripe fruit, fine tannins carefully extracted and Roussillon heat. Lovely exciting wine. At a great price…..but I only have a few bottles!
Bodegas Comanges, Ribero del Duero, 2007 ( Tempranillo)
One of the most popular wines at the Goods Shed this year has been ‘Biberious’, Ribero del Duero 2011 produced by Bodegas Comanges. This wine is the one that carries the name of the estate and it is a super, fleshy, modern style Ribero del Duero. It is not the firm structured style that takes years to shed its tannic carapace but one that, at five years, delivers layered fruit and spice with a velvet-textured mesh of fine, ripe tannins. It has harmony too and great persistence.
The next Wine Tables
Friday 7th and 14th December
Press Wine Services will be running a ‘Wine Table’ evening at which a selection of 8 wines will be opened and tasted. Corks will be drawn and the first wine poured at 7 pm; we aim to serve the final wine at 8.30pm.
This will be an ideal opportunity to try a superb range of wines which will partner many dishes over the Christmas period. The same wines will be tasted on each evening. The flights will include the following wines:
2010 Seguin Moreau Savigny les Beaune Blanc, Les Goudelettes; a precise and well structured white Burgundy which carries the minerality of Chablis and the weight of the premium vineyards of the Cotes du Beaune,
2004 Apollonio ‘Divoto’. Copertino: a fully mature deep and concentrated award winning red from Puglia. Ithas acomplex notes of spice , cedar and black fruits.
2009 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge, Jean Marc Pillot: a delightful red Burgundy from the fabulous 2009 vintage. Ripe and silky with a notes of sousbois and game.
2003 Quinta do Ventezelo Vintage Port; A ripe, powerful Black cherry fruit and spice fruited port. Drinking now but with a gutsy character to age further.
Places are limited to a dozen guests so please book as soon as possible. The cost is £ 10 per person, payable with your booking.